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After Gambo, I drive west and north, take the ferry to Fogo Island and book into the B&B in Tilting, a heritage community on the northeast shore of Fogo.
Old houses, fish stages and flakes, fences, a small harbour sheltered from ocean storms by Pigeon Island. I walk to the old Irish cemetery (Tilting was settled by Irish Catholic immigrants in the 1720s), then hike to Lighthouse Point and along the coast to the beach at Sandy Cove. Small Arctic flowers on the barrens. Terns swooping overhead.

There’s a wonderful artists’ retreat along the shore just out of sight of Tilting, designed by local architect Todd Saunders. It looks for all the world like another iceberg. And any angle you look at it, it looks tilted. An architect with a sense of humour.

The sun shines the whole day.

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